While many have taken the plunge in the last few years, "Strike Indicator" style nymph fishing, a very common tactic elsewhere in the country is still very much under utilized here in the northeast. Whether it is intimidation, ties to tradition, or simply that they do not like the concept, many anglers still refuse to give this style of fishing a try or when they do, spend enough time at it to be proficient.

Whenever I hear someone say that it is "too easy", "too much like bobber fishing", etc., I have to laugh. While granted anyone can throw together a nymph rig and move some fish, only a real skilled angler can be successful most of the time and phenomenally successful some of the time. If it is so easy, why can one fisherman catch fish after fish while others fishing the same pool move only an occasional fish?

The point is that it takes as much skill to be a good nymph fisherman as it does a good dry fly fisherman. While it can be a somewhat tedious way to fish and as such, it is not my "favorite" method, make no mistake it is ABSOLUTELY the most "productive" method. In addition, under certain circumstances it is the ONLY way to fish (pressured fish, clear water, cold water, etc.) With that said, here is what you need to know to become a proficient nymph fisherman:

Tackle

1. Fly Rod - In my opinion, the best rod for nymph fishing is a medium/fast-action 9' 5-weight. Heavy enough to cast a nymph and indicator rig, it is also light enough to protect small tippets.
2. Fly Reel - A reel with a good drag that will protect light tippets (5X-6X) is the best bet for nymph fishing.
3. Fly Line - My preference is a Double-Taper or a Weight-Forward line with a long belly (Scientific Anglers XPS, XXD, etc.). These lines provide superior floatation due to the fact that there is no thin running line on the water (easier to mend, etc.).
4. Leader - My standard is a 9' 4X knotless tapered nylon leader for abrasion resistance and to facilitate fluorocarbon tippets.
5. Tippet - As lack of visibility and strength is key to successful nymph fishing, I use only fluorocarbon (preferably second-generation such as RIO Fluoroflex Plus) tippet in 3X-5X.
6. Strike Indicators - I recommend only indicators that can be adjusted for varying conditions (depth and current). For heavy nymphs such as stoneflies or strong currents, I recommend large yarn indicators in neutral colors (black and white are my favorites). For gentler currents and lighter flies I recommend smaller brightly colored twist-on foam indicators.
7. Weight - For conservation purposes, I recommend environmentally friendly tin split shot such as that offered by Dinsmore. The best bet is to purchase a dial-up style assortment and refill the bins as needed. Be sure to carry a set of forceps or pliers capable of pinching tin.
8. Line/Indicator Treatment - To ensure good line and indicator floatation, I treat the last 4' of my fly line and my indicator with a product such as Gink, Mucilin, or my personal favorite Aquel from Loon Products.
9. Flies - A decent selection of stonefly, mayfly and caddis nymphs between #6 and #22 is required to effectively cover most water. In addition, you should carry weighted, unweighted, beaded and beadless versions.

Rigging

1. Indicator - As a rule, your indicator should be set at 2 times the depth of the water (25% less for slow currents and 25% more for fast currents). Under no circumstances should your indicator be closer than 12" from the fly line (you will not see subtle hits).
2. Use 4X to the first fly and 5X to second fly for medium/small fly rigs and 3X and 4X for large/medium fly rigs.
3. Always set a small "anchor" split shot closest to the fly to help prevent additional shot from slipping. Add split shot as needed, using a "larger" as opposed to "more" rule (keeping to two split shot will reduce snags).
4. As a rule I use #6-8 and #12-14 or #14-16 and #18-22 fly combinations so as not to overwhelm the dropper. Tie the second fly to either the bend or the eye of the lead fly.

Technique

1. Never over-hand cast. Always roll-cast downstream, let the line straighten below you (water-load), and flip the rig directly upstream (prevents tangles).
2. Fish no further than 20' out and most often within 10'.
3. Fish an equal distance downstream as you cast upstream.
4. Mend line through the entire drift to ensure a drag-free presentation.
5. If the indicator is not "twitching", add more weight - you are not on the bottom!
6. Set the hook lightly to any (even very subtle) odd movements in the indicator (e.g., hesitation, sideways motion, submerged, etc.). If you do not feel a fish, feed out some line and mend to continue your drift.
7. Fish to targets you can see whenever possible. If you see flashes or opening mouths, they are feeding. If they won't bite, change flies and go smaller.

With the right tackle, rigging, technique and confidence (this really does work!), you can become a proficient nymph fisherman. Another recommendation is that you spend a day fishing with someone who is real good at it (spend more time watching than fishing - it won't kill you!). Most importantly, be patient if you do it enough it will come to you. When it does, I sincerely believe that you will see "fly fishing with a bobber" in a different light.