Like most who read this paper, I grew up fishing out of a canoe.  I have had my own canoe since I was a teenager.  In fact, I recently came across a picture of me in my late teens standing next to my early 1970’s vintage Pontiac Catalina with a canoe perched awkwardly on top and at a time when I was somewhat distracted from fishing by other teenage temptations.  Since then, a canoe has pretty much been a fixture on the roof of my 4x4.  I have canoes at the shop, canoes at the house, canoes chained to trees, and canoes that I can no longer find! 

Each year however, I find myself turning more and more toward float tubes.  Many years ago and long before they were common in New England, I purchased my first float tube (a Caddis Supreme).  Although I used it somewhat sparingly, I always appreciated what a float tube offers.  Comfortable, stealthy and easy to transport, float tubes offer the angler an alternative to the sometimes uncomfortable, never stealthy, and often cumbersome canoe.  In addition, a float tube is affordable to the masses, more so than a canoe which can cost upwards to $1,000 these days.

As I get older, I am no longer able to sit with my knees above my ‘hind end’ for very long without cramping up.  As such I often stand up to fish which as anyone over 40 knows, is not as easy or safe as it once was!  For these reasons, I now try to use my float tube for not only exploring new waters and accessing remote waters, but for everyday fishing.  Have I given up my canoes?  No way and I doubt I ever will.  However, float tubes provide a great option for certain situations.  In some cases, they are in fact the best option.

Unlike a canoe that cast a long shadow and transfers noise deep into the water, float tubes cast a very small shadow and in fact muffle the noise.  I am often amazed at how close fish will feed to me when I am in a float tube; mere feet away.  This allows for very short casts and limits the amount of line on the water thus spooking fewer fish.  Fish just don’t seem to be afraid of a float tube.  As I see it, with a small round shadow and a pair of fins dangling beneath me, I must just look like an oversized duck or something non-threatening?  

Float tubes cost between $100 and $400 and come in four basic designs; doughnut, u-boat, pontoon, and u-boat hybrids.  Doughnut style float tubes are the oldest and in fact my least favorite.  They are difficult to get in and out of, inefficient to maneuver, not very stable, and they sit awful low in the water.  U-boat style float tubes are a great alternative as they are far easier to get in and out of and more stable, but likewise they are somewhat inefficient and often sit very low in the water.  Pontoon style float tubes address many of the shortcomings of the previously mentioned styles but are often bulky and heavy and therefore best suited for drive-in fishing.

In my opinion the best option available today for an all-purpose float tube is the so-called u-boat hybrids.  These float tubes utilize a front-entry like a traditional u-boat style but with an upturned pointed ‘bow’ like a row boat.  This allows for far more efficient movement (you do not ‘plow’ the water), better than average stability, easy access, and portability.  While there is some debate as to who is responsible for this design, the best I can tell is that it came from Outcast, a division of Aire Rafts (and I may be wrong).  Regardless, this style of float tube is now available from a number of different sources.          

As for what else to look for, even though they often look the same, all float tubes are NOT created equal!  The biggest difference between so-called entry level float tubes and the more expensive ones is the bladder(s).  Most bladders on cheaper float tubes are made of vinyl with heat welded seams.  While they work, these bladders are somewhat prone to seam failure, punctures, and a general degradation that sometimes results in ‘crease stress leaks’.  Most of the more expensive float tubes use bladders that are made of urethane.  Urethane is more puncture resistant, holds seams better, and less prone to breaking down over time.

Another area where float tubes vary radically is in regard to the type of valves used.  While some of the cheaper tubes use ‘beach ball’ style valves, some of the better ones use ‘raft grade’ valves.  Look for 2-stage (one stage for inflating and one stage for deflating) valves which utilize large openings for quick inflation and deflation.  The larger openings are also more conducive to attaching firmly to the typical hand pumps available today.  Rather than a hinged ‘flap’, the better valves employ a one-way pin/spring type closure to prevent air from escaping while you are filling the tube up.  Good valves are worth every penny.   

Also look for a seat that is firm and sits above the water line.  While ‘stadium’ style seats or simple suspended saddles work, a firm seat is much better.  Firm seats aid in casting by getting you up higher; keep you warmer in cold weather by keeping you out of the water, and result in far less fatigue.  Many of the better float tubes have seats with firm bottoms and backs which provides the most comfort.  Also consider a float tube with an inflatable seat as this allows for more compact storage while also giving you additional floatation and some control over the firmness.  My favorite float tubes (Outcast), come with either a foam or inflatable seat.    

As for the exterior cloth used in float tubes, most are covered in some sort of nylon or PVC. While the top of most float tubes are similar, some employ a heavy-duty bottom which can really help prevent punctures when entering and exiting the water.  In addition, solid floor panels between the seat back and upturned bow are far better than mesh floor panels as they limit the amount of water that can get inside the tubes and help the boat float higher.  Also note that float tubes with soft seats or saddles must use a rigid bar (PVC or aluminum) to keep the ends from coming together.  This makes entering and exiting the tube a little tougher.  

Another area where tubes differ from one another is in regard to the features.  The number and type of pockets varies considerably from one float tube to another.  In most cases, the pockets are adequate or in fact more than adequate for most anglers.  However, as vests are often in the way while float tubing, pockets are a great idea.  Add wool-like fly patches, Velcro rod holder straps, stripping aprons, plastic d-rings, and other accoutrements, and most modern float tubes have more gadgets than the average angler will ever use.   

If you haven’t yet given one of these watercrafts a try, I highly suggest you do.  Once rare in Maine, ‘float tube hatches’ are now common on some waters.  Embraced wholeheartedly by the younger generation, float tubes may be an old fisherman’s best friend!  I now have two (one for general use and one for backpacking) and Diana picked one up last year.  She now prefers to fish from a float tube than to fish from a canoe.  I am still using both.  However, as I said, these are a great option for any angler and well worth the investment.  I’ll bet we see a whole lot more of them before in the next few years.  
         
Featured Water:  Last summer, Diana and I spent a few weeks fishing in Colorado.  While we were there we fished all of the big name waters I had read about over the years.  One that stood out was the Cheeseman Canyon section of the South Platte.  This walk-in fishery offers beautiful scenery, wildlife, ample room to roam, and rumor has it some pretty nice fish!  Cheeseman has however suffered as a result of a major fire a few years ago that poured tons of ash into the river.  As a result, my recommendation is that you hike as far upstream as possible.        

Bob Mallard has been a flyfisherman and fly tyer for over 25 years and is the owner of Kennebec River Outfitters on Route 201 in Madison, ME. He can be reached at (207) 474-2500 or www.kennebecriveroutfitters.com.