With off-the-shelf fly rods costing upwards to $700+, you would think anglers would thoroughly assess their needs and evaluate their options before they spent their money. However, it never ceases to amaze me how many anglers make hasty and uninformed decisions in regard to purchasing a fly rod resulting in the angler making the wrong choice (and often a very expensive mistake!).

As a fly shop owner, I often have anglers tell me they have a "Closet Full" of rods none of which they really like, or worse, that they just spent $500 or more on a rod that they absolutely hate! Of greater concern is that they are always more than willing to tell me all about the "Jerk" who sold them the rod placing all of the blame on the shop owner for their own mistake (would you blame the car salesman for selling you the wrong car?).

As such, I make a point of working with my customers to understand what they are trying to accomplish, defuse some myths, eliminate some of the hype, and help them select a rod that they will feel good about purchasing (I don't want to be the one they talk about at the next shop or worse, on the water!) So, here are some of my "Opinions" in regard to Fly Rods. Take them for what they are worth!

Material (Tradition or Technology?)

Fly rods are made from a number of materials including graphite, boron, fiberglass, titanium, bamboo and even quartz (Redington's NTiQ). In addition, companies such as Winston use a combination of materials (graphite and boron, etc.) to create a rod that possesses the best characteristics of each. As you can see, the choices are many. However, for most anglers, the answer is simple, i.e., graphite!

For overall utility graphite still stands well above the others. While other materials have come and gone or failed to meet their expectations, graphite has stood the test of time and still offers the average angler the best blend of affordability, warranty, lightness, ease of casting, and overall performance. With models from $75 to $700+, there is a quality graphite rod out there for everyone!

As for boron, titanium, quartz, etc., while the basis for a number of popular highly technical rods, they represent niche products that are typically on the expensive side ($600+). In addition, while rods made of these materials will cast extremely well in the proper hands (i.e., skilled anglers), they are sometimes difficult for the average angler to master due to what I would call a very fast action.

Although fiberglass has made a recent resurgence in the high-end rod market, rods made from it range from marginal to useful. While fiberglass rods from department stores may be virtually useless due to their inability to stand up to modern lines, winds and large flies, those offered by companies like Winston are in fact quite fishable. However, they are expensive and in my opinion, a niche product.

As for bamboo, while they are beautiful, they are expensive, lack the "unconditional" warranties offered in most other rods, are heavy, and in most cases possess a slow action that is tough for most anglers to master. However, there are those who will fish with nothing else and see graphite and other modern materials as nothing short of blasphemy! While everyone is entitled to their opinion, I do not recommend bamboo for everyday use.

Line Weight (One Size Doesn't Fit All!)

What was standard for trout just ten years ago would seem ridiculously heavy in today's world. Manufacturers now offer rods in a much wider range of sizes than ever before. Available from 0-weight to 15-weight, there are fly rods out there to match any situation. Based on my personal experience and supported by industry statistics, the 5-weight and 8-weight are the two most popular weights.

In regard to trout, a 5-weight rod is the absolute most versatile (light enough for dries and heavy enough for most streamers). As such, if an angler were to own only one rod, a 5-weight is my recommendation. As for a second rod, I recommend a 4-weight for the dry fly enthusiast and a 6-weight for the angler who fishes a lot of wet lines. Rods below 4-weight and above 6-weight however are specialty rods and should only be purchased as such.

While the perfect tool for micro-hatches such as fall BWO's, rods below 4-weight are tough to cast into the wind or handle flies much larger than #16. In addition, these rods are purely dry fly rods and of little use in regard to streamers, etc. As for rods above 6-weight, while a 7-weight may be a good niche rod for those casting unusually large streamers, anything bigger is way to heavy for trout.

In regard to saltwater, an 8-weight rod is the most versatile. Light enough for bonefish and heavy enough for stripers, an 8-weight is strong enough to punch a popper into the wind or handle a 300 Grain sinking line with a Clouser minnow. For those looking for bigger game such as a Tarpon, rods of 9-weight and up are recommended. While rods below 8-weights can be effective in certain circumstances (bonefish, etc.), they are not for general saltwater use.

As for Atlantic salmon and Great Lakes steelhead, an 8-weight is the ideal rod. While a 9-weight will work for large Atlantic salmon and northwest steelhead, it is too heavy to protect the light tippets now used for Great Lakes steelhead. Even though rods below 8-weight are being used for grilse, they are not recommended for general salmon use. For larger salmon such as kings, a 9-weight or heavier is your best bet.

Action (There Is A Place For All Of Them...)

While fast-action rods have been the standard for the last 10+ years, medium and even slow action rods appear to be making a comeback. If you doubt this, compare the price folk's get for used Sage LL's (a long discontinued slow-action rod) compared to a used Sage RPL's (a recently discontinued fast-action rod). In addition, Sage's new SLT is the slowest rod they have made since the LL.

While fast-action rods such as the Sage XP will admittedly help the skilled angler to cast further, they are often tough for the beginner to master. In addition, fast-action rods make it harder for even skilled anglers to protect the light tippets often required for today's heavily pressured fish. However, when long casts, heavy wind, and bulky flies are the norm, a fast-action rod is a good choice.

Slow-action rods such as the Winston WT on the other hand are harder to generate high line speed and tight loops with, making them less than ideal for long casts. However, nothing protects light tippets better and the roll-casting and mending capabilities are far superior to that of fast-action rods. As such, while not the best choice for distance, large flies, or wind, slow-action rods are a great choice for in-close fishing with light tippets.

Medium-action rods such as the Sage SLT or Winston DL4 offer the angler the best of both worlds and as such, in my opinion are a great choice for all-around use. This is not to say that fast and slow rods do not have a place - they clearly do. As a general rule, I recommend slow to medium action in 4-weight and down, medium to fast action in 6-weight and up, and medium action for 5-weights.

A notable exception is in regard to steelhead and Atlantic salmon which although warrant an 8-weight, are best fished with a medium-action rod to aid in roll-casting, mending and protecting light tippets. In addition, as noted above, there are times when a slow or fast action 5-weight is your best choice. However, rarely would I recommend a fast light rod (4-weight and down) or a slow heavy rod (6-weight and up).

Length (Size Does Matter!)

A 9' rod is by far your best choice for all-around use. Based on sales statistics, apparently many anglers agree with me (9' rods represent the lions share of the market). Long enough to cast long distances, effectively roll-cast, and mend, 9' rods are clearly the most versatile. As such, I recommend 9' rods for all-around use in trout, saltwater and warmwater fishing.

In my opinion, rods longer and shorter than 9' are niche products and should be purchased as such. The most common (and I feel valid) exception to this rule is the trout angler whom primarily wades and wishes to lighten the load a bit without sacrificing too much performance. In this case, the angler should consider an 8.5' rod while recognizing that they will in fact lose some distance on their casts.

Another exception is in regard to salmon and steelhead where 9.5' and 10' rods are gaining in popularity due to their superior mending and roll-casting capabilities along with the fact that they help leverage large fish and protect light tippets. In addition, while rods longer than 9' can in fact aid in casting from a float tube, they are heavy and in some cases require a somewhat awkward casting stroke.

As for rods shorter than 8.5', these are best suited to tight quarters and small bodies of water. While a 7' rod would make a great small stream rod for New England, it might not fair well out west where large fish are found in small creeks (it is tough to control a large fish on a short rod). In cases where large fish are found in small water such as the western Spring Creeks, an 8' rod would be a better choice.

Pieces (Are You Sure You Want That 12-Piece Rod?)

Maybe the biggest debate of all in regard to fly rods, I still feel that 2-piece rods are the best option for the average angler (although many disagree with me). Cheaper, lighter, and I feel more true (they just feel better to me) than their multi-piece cousins, 2-piece rods can be transported already put together (and with the fly on!) using a readily available "Reel On" style rod case.

If air travel is an infrequent activity for you, why spend the extra money and deal with the negatives associated with multi-piece rods (more pieces to put together, break or lose, added weight, etc.)? In addition, let me assure you that even a 7-piece rod is no guarantee that they will let you carry it on board the plane. Some airports (especially those that are not in a fly fishing area) simply don't like fly rods!

Regardless, the trends are clear (everyone is making multi-piece rods) and in some areas, multi-piece rods actually outsell 2-piece rods. If you feel the need to buy a multi-piece rod for everyday use, consider one made of an even number of sections (i.e., 4 or 6). This will allow you to carry the rod in a 2-piece case for everyday use and use the factory tube only when traveling, hiking, biking, etc.

As for purchasing a rod specifically for travel, backpacking, etc., in my opinion, the smaller the better. For maximum flexibility, consider a rod in a 5 to 7-piece configuration (these will fit anywhere!). Another valid exception is when that rod you love only comes in a multi-piece model (a fairly common occurrence). When this happens, don't deprive yourself of the rod simply because there are more pieces than you want!

Overlay vs. Internal Ferrules (The Real Difference!)

While minor from a performance standpoint, Internal Ferrules (the lower section has a plug that slips into the end of the upper section) sure are aesthetically pleasing and some "traditionalists" refuse to buy anything else. However, the realty is that today's Overlay ferrules (the upper section slides over the lower section) are every bit as good and in many cases, I feel better.

While I personally own rods with both types of ferrules, I must admit that I have had more rod tips with internal ferrules fly off during aggressive casting than those with overlays. In addition, while rare, I have worn out a ferrule to a point where it would no longer work (the two sections of the blank touched resulting in a loose fit). I have also seen more broken internal ferrules than overlay ferrules.

As such, I definitely prefer overlay ferrules for rods that I cast aggressively (fast-action). However, I am somewhat partial to internal ferrules on slow-action and multi-piece rods. Since I feel that an internal ferrule is a cleaner (at least aesthetically) connection, it becomes more important to me as I add sections! The bad news is that many fine rods (Sage, etc.) do not use internal ferrules and those that do are typically expensive (over $500).

Standard Snake vs. Single Foot Guides (The Real Deal!)

Once the rage, single-foot guides have never completely taken off. While available on certain high-tech rods (NTI, etc.), the majority of rods sold today use standard snake guides. While some still claim that they cast further, the real issue in regard to single-foot guides is weight and price. By eliminating one wrapping (and epoxy) per guide, the resulting rod is lighter and cheaper to make.

As for performance, while there may have been a legitimate argument a few years ago, I am not sure if it still holds true. The initial concept was that the fly line crossed a single-foot guide at a perfect 90-degree angle thus lessening friction. However, while older snake guides may have been somewhat angled causing the line to cross at something less than a perfect 90-degree, newer snake guides appear to be much truer.

While single-foot guides due result in a fairly significant weight reduction, a valid concern (in addition to the aesthetics which do not appeal to everyone) is in regard to durability. Anchored at two points, traditional snake guides are pretty tough and seldom get bent or broken. However, since they are anchored in only one spot, single-foot guides are far more likely to get damaged putting them into the tube, removing ice, etc.

Factory vs. Custom (Things You Should Know!)

It is not unusual to see folks with custom-made rods. While you can clearly save some money (upwards to 20%), it comes with some negatives. In many cases, I see rods that were built with components that were inferior to those normally used by the manufacturer. While this can be deliberately done to save money or eliminate weight (exchanging nickel for aluminum, etc.), the buyer needs to be careful.

I have also seen rods where the builder tried to "outthink" the manufacturer and in fact, negatively impacted the rod. Common mistakes are in regard to guide size and spacing, over or under sized grips, and my absolute biggest complaint, ceramic spinning rod guides on a fly rod (talk about friction!) As such, the buyer should do their homework, see some samples, and ask for some references before they buy.

Another issue is in regard to warranties. While you may save some money up front, it may in fact cost you more over the lifetime of the rod. While most factory rods are covered by an "unconditional" warranty where for somewhere around $20 you can get your rod fixed or replaced, custom rods may be subject to a fee from the builder (blanks are warranted against breakage but the rod builder must finish the new section).

Lastly, you should consider the resale value of a custom rod before you buy one. If you are the type that upgrades their rods periodically, you may be disappointed when you find what your used custom rod is worth. While a used factory rod may be worth 50% of its original purchase price, a used custom rod may be worth only 25% if in fact you can even sell it (a custom rod is a very personal thing)

Warranties (Why They Are Important...)

One thing you can be sure of is that if you use a rod long enough, you will inevitably break it. While the majority of fly rods break in the tip section, the causes are many. For example, rod tips can get broken as a result of getting caught in trees, bounced off rocks, stepped on, closed in doors, and every other conceivable hazard. In addition, taking a hook point, split shot, or beadhead on the blank can break a rod.

Most "Pro Shop" fly rods are covered by an "Unconditional" warranty. This is not true however for most department store rods which at best carry a "Manufacturers Defect" warranty. While the term "Unconditional" implies that it does not matter how you break the rod, there are some important differences to be aware of. First is in regard to length. In some cases the warranty is good for life, in others a specific period of time (25 years, etc.)

In addition, some companies such as Sage will repair a broken rod while others such as Redington will replace the rod. There are also varying fees associated with different vendors warranties (some fixed, some variable). Lastly, the turnaround time for repairs varies greatly throughout the industry. As such, it pays to do your homework so that you know exactly what to expect if and when you need to exercise your warranty.

New vs. Used (Is It really such a Great Deal?)

Used rods are all over the Internet these days. However, there are some things you should know about them before you decide whether you want to buy one. First and foremost is that many warranties are non-transferable meaning that if you break the rod, you may be charged a significant amount of money to get it fixed or replaced. This can have a major impact on the cost over the life of the rod.

While enforcing fly rod registration to determine the original owner is not easy (many folks do not send in the warranty cards), most manufacturers "auto-register" rods which come into their repair center. In addition, many vendor's track rods back to the original fly shops via serial numbers and a simple question, i.e., "where did you buy the rod", can quickly determine if in fact you are the original owner.

As for value, this is tough one. However, there are some basic guidelines you can use to estimate the value of a used rod. The first rule of thumb is that no used rod is worth more than 60% of its original purchase price (and then only if it is currently marketed, in mint condition and a desirable product). Next is that discontinued used rods are worth significantly less than currently marketed used rods.

Discontinued Rods (What Are They Really Worth?)

Much like a used rod, the value of discontinued rods varies radically. The first thing you must ask yourself is if it was that great, why did they discontinue it? When a rod is discontinued, it means one of two things, i.e., it was a dog, or its time had passed and the company had moved on to bigger and better things. As such, anglers need to be real careful in regard to jumping on a discontinued rod just because it is discounted - a dog is a dog!

As soon as a rod is discontinued, the factory authorizes dealers to drop their price and in most cases, the rods are immediately available for between 25-40% off. While not guaranteed, this should give you a good idea in regard to what you should expect to pay. Also note that in my opinion this is where most anglers make their biggest mistakes - if you didn't like the rod at $500, you won't like it any better at $300!