Much like fly rods, there is no watercraft that will do everything. However, a clear understanding of what is available and an honest assessment of what you are most likely to try to do with it can help prevent a bad purchase. Modern fly fishing watercraft come in seven general categories with numerous sub-categories and configurations available:

• Float Tubes
  
• Pontoon Boats
  
• Canoes
  
• Square-Stern Canoes
  
• Kayaks
  
• Driftboats
  
• Rafts

Float Tubes ($100 - $400)

Long a standard out west and the most basic form of watercraft available, float tubes are gaining popularity here in the east. Once a rarity in Maine, float tubes are now a common sight in many of our ponds. Offered in four basic designs (doughnut, u-boat, pontoon and u-boat/pontoon hybrid), float tubes offer the angler an affordable, lightweight and effective option to traditional canoes.

The primary benefit of a float tube is its size and weight. At roughly ten pounds, and with a deflated size of a sleeping bag, float tubes can be easily carried. In addition, although nowhere near as fleet or maneuverable as a canoe, float tubes do not scare fish (smaller shadow and no noise transfer) and as such, you can get much closer to them than you think - I have actually watched fish swim by!

While cheapest, I am not a big fan of doughnut style float tubes due to the difficulty in getting in and out (you must "wear" it). As such, for general use I prefer a u-boat or u-boat/pontoon hybrid. An alternative is a pontoon style that although somewhat large for carrying inflated down narrow trails or packing, is the absolute most comfortable and stable (great for short walk-in use).

Pontoon Boats ($400 - $2,000)

One of the newer entries to the world of fishing watercraft, pontoon boats are popular our west and gaining popularity in the northeast. Different than a pontoon style float tube due to the fact that they are rowed versus kicked, these boats are like a miniature driftboat. Well suited for moving water, pontoon boats can also be used on lakes and ponds where access is available (they are a little bulky and heavy to carry any distance).

While great for fishing on flat water (they are very comfortable and stable), in moving water you must paddle to ensure that you go where you intend (don't think that you are going to cast away on your way down the East Outlet!) As such, they are great "taxis" for the river fisherman. There are also two and three seat models that are used the same way as a driftboat.

The one drawback of pontoon boats is that they are very slow and can be real tough to row against a wind. As such, they are not the best choice for New England rivers with long stretches of deadwater. The angler interested in a pontoon boat should give some serious thought to where they plan on using it and I strongly recommend that you rent one before you buy.

Canoes ($500 - $2,000)

The canoe the most versatile watercraft ever made! Canoes come in aluminum, fiberglass, polyethylene, Royalex, kevlar, and wood. By far the most practical for fly fisherman are those made of fiberglass, polyethylene, Royalex and Kevlar. Although undeniably rugged, aluminum is loud (noise transfer is real important when fishing) and tough on equipment and as such, not my choice. As for wood, while attractive to the traditionalist, they require a maintenance and are too delicate for many anglers.

As for Kevlar, while quite expensive it is the absolute lightest and toughest material available (what bullet-proof vests are made from!) Kevlar canoes are available in both lake and river models and in most cases are up to 20% lighter than similar canoes made of the other materials mentioned. If portaging or long carry-ins are a significant part of your angling, you may want to consider a canoe made of Kevlar.

For those who fish primarily lakes and ponds, fiberglass is a good option due to its affordability, durability, and reasonable weight. I recommend canoes between 14' and 17' and for canoes less than 16' I strongly recommend wider (up to 40+") models to ensure stability. Another important factor is a keel. Without a keel the canoe will track poorly and blow around while on anchor.

For rivers and streams, Royalex and polyethylene are what I recommend due to their durability, with a strong preference going to Royalex due to its lighter weight, better longevity, and the fact that polyethylene is prone to warping. I recommend canoes between 16' and 17' to allow for efficient paddling and stability. In addition, canoes without keels are far more maneuverable and as such, recommended for rivers and streams.

Square-Stern Canoes ($800 - $3,000)

A square-stern canoe offers many of the conveniences found in traditional canoes (weight, affordability, maneuverability, etc.) in a watercraft that can be efficiently and safely motored. Square-Sterns come in aluminum, fiberglass, polyethylene, Kevlar, and wood. In addition to being able to motor a square-stern, they can be paddled much like a canoe and with the addition of a set of oarlocks, rowed like a boat.

The most practical are those made of fiberglass (price, durability, weight). While available in polyethylene, these typically require an internal support that can catch fly lines and damage rods. As for Kevlar, while an option for smaller boats that are car topped or carried any distance, many larger square-sterns are trailered and as such, there is little is to be gained by making them lighter (the benefit does offset the cost).

While square-sterns are best suited for lakes and ponds, they can be used in rivers. Square-sterns come in lengths between 12' and 24' and almost always come with one or more keels (more is better!). For rivers, 12' to 16' is ideal. For large lakes, 18' to 24' is not a bad idea. If you plan on doing a lot of motoring (trolling, etc.) and want the versatility of a canoe, a square-stern may be the best choice you can make.

Kayaks ($400 - $700)

Another new entry to the world of fishing watercraft, kayaks have become quite popular even up here in canoe country. Different from a canoe in that you sit with your legs straight out and use a double-ended paddle, these boats are both light and fleet. Well suited for moving water as well as stillwater, kayaks can be used anywhere and are light enough to use where access is limited.

While great for fishing out of on stillwater (they are more stable than you can imagine), when in moving water you must paddle to ensure that you go where you intend. However, unlike canoes they are easy to move upstream and significantly faster. As such, kayaks are great "taxis" for the river fisherman. While there are both solo and two-seat models, only a solo boat should be considered for fishing.

The one drawback of a kayak is storage. While kayaks such as the Walden Scout (in my opinion the best fishing kayak available) have covered and open storage along with places for lashing down rod cases and paddles, many kayaks have limited storage. The angler interested in a kayak should try one before they buy one - they are not for everyone.

Driftboats ($3,500 - $6,500)

Common out west and becoming more prevalent in the east, driftboats are not for everyone. One of the biggest limitations in regard to driftboats in the northeast is the lack of quality launching facilities. While the west is dotted with launch sites specifically designed for driftboats, here in the northeast we must utilize launches designed with for motor boats (many are at the end of a deadwater as opposed to the head of it).

As such, driftboat operators often row miles of slow water at the end of their trip just to reach a launch. For the casual user, another consideration is the need for a shuttle and the amount of time needed to float most of our driftable waters. Another significant issue for the "Weekend Warrior" is that driftboats must be constantly rowed and if you are on the oars, you are not fishing!

The good news is that there is no better watercraft to guide out of due to its stability, capacity and comforts. A driftboat can comfortably seat two anglers and a guide and has more storage than you can use. In addition, with front and rear casting braces, level floors, and stripping decks, nothing is easier to fish from. With attention turning to moving waters these days, driftboats are sure to be a common site in a few short years.

Rafts ($1,500 - $3,500)

An alternative to a driftboat, a raft with rowing frame is every bit as useful and almost as comfortable (in fact, the ride is better!) The real benefit of a raft is that it can be put in and taken out without the use of a boat launch. With help from two friends, you would be amazed at where you can put a raft! Add to that the fact that a raft requires less water, is extremely quiet, and much lighter, and you have the "Jeep" of rowed watercraft!

If a raft interests you, consider a 12-14' self-bailer (water drains through the floor) and be sure to get one that will stand up to New England's rocky rivers. Lastly, you will need a rowing frame, anchor system, external storage (dry bags, etc.), and a trailer. While trailers specifically designed for rafts are next to impossible to find, any good landscaping trailer with a carpeted deck will do.